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Ethiopia

Harar: The Pact of the Hyenas

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At nightfall, the hyenas of Harar venture out into the streets in search of food.
With a small stick, on which he has attached a piece of meat, Abbas Saleh, better known as Hyena Man, feeds the hyenas that abound in the vicinity of Harar every evening.
By the light of their mobile phones, tourists and locals come to sit alongside Abbas to capture themselves feeding the hyenas.
A hyena comes to eat a piece of meat attached to the stick held between Abbas's teeth.
An American tourist watches as a hyena delicately takes a piece of meat directly from Abbas's hands. While intimidating, this spectacle allows tourists to appreciate the impressive power of these predators' jaws, which can weigh up to 80 kg.
A hyena waits its turn to receive food from Abbas. While dominant hyenas eat the pieces of meat offered by Abbas, lower-ranking hyenas patiently wait their turn at the back.
A hyena comes to eat a piece of meat attached to the stick held between Abbas's teeth. Hyenas are known to be formidable hunters in the African savannah, but in Harar, they gather here every evening to receive their food from the hands of humans.
A hyena stands beside Abbas to receive a piece of meat. Rather than leaping to attack, the hyenas patiently wait their turn before receiving the food offered to them.
Once the feeding ritual is finished, the hyenas pounce on the remains provided to them in a chorus of chuckles, clacks, and growls. Their dentition specially adapted for crushing bones, combined with large jaw muscles, gives the spotted hyena the most powerful bite of all terrestrial carnivores. Moreover, its specially adapted stomach allows it to digest both skin and bones.
Silhouette of a spotted hyena, characterized by a massive elongated neck and a large head topped with rounded ears.
A group of young spotted hyenas on one of the roads leading to Harar. Although the spotted hyena, like most predatory mammals, is generally timid in the presence of humans and therefore usually keeps its distance, in Harar, it is possible, with a little luck, to spot them during their nocturnal or early morning outings.
A spotted hyena heading towards its den on the outskirts of Harar. Today, like most Ethiopian cities, Harar is undergoing rapid urban development, pushing the hyenas further and further towards the outskirts. It is to the east of the city that it is possible, with a little luck, to spot them during their nocturnal or early morning outings.
Hyenas wait their turn to receive food from Abbas. While dominant hyenas eat the pieces of meat offered by Abbas, lower-ranking hyenas patiently wait their turn at the back.
A hyena with a missing eye. Although the hyenas of Harar are fed daily, they remain wild animals. Competition within the clan, with hyenas from other clans, or with other animal species can escalate into fights causing serious physical harm.
Abbas kisses a hyena on the muzzle. The incredible relationship Abbas has with the hyenas allows him to do almost anything he wants with them.
A piece of meat thrown by Abbas lands in front of a hyena's muzzle. While dominant hyenas eat the pieces of meat offered by Abbas, lower-ranking hyenas patiently wait their turn at the back.
The hyenas of Harar are so accustomed to human presence that they don't hesitate to come and enjoy their meal at the spectators' feet.
Once the feeding ritual is finished, the hyenas pounce on the remains provided to them in a chorus of chuckles, clacks, and growls. Their dentition specially adapted for crushing bones, combined with large jaw muscles, gives the spotted hyena the most powerful bite of all terrestrial carnivores. Moreover, its specially adapted stomach allows it to digest both skin and bones.
Close-up of a spotted hyena. Although generally shy in the presence of humans, the hyenas of Harar are so accustomed to human presence that they have not hesitated to venture a few centimeters from the camera lens.
A spotted hyena by the side of a road leading to Harar. Although the spotted hyena, like most predatory mammals, is generally timid in the presence of humans and therefore usually keeps its distance, in Harar, it is possible, with a little luck, to spot them during their nocturnal or early morning outings.
A spotted hyena on the outskirts of the city of Harar. Unlike other hyena species, the spotted hyena is heavily built, with a massive neck and a large head topped with rounded ears.
During the feeding ritual, the most opportunistic cats do not hesitate to compete with the hyenas to get their share of the cake.
Once the feeding ritual is finished, the hyenas pounce on the remains provided to them in a chorus of chuckles, clacks, and growls. Their dentition specially adapted for crushing bones, combined with large jaw muscles, gives the spotted hyena the most powerful bite of all terrestrial carnivores. Moreover, its specially adapted stomach allows it to digest both skin and bones.
During the feeding ritual, the hyenas swarm around Abbas, exchanging chuckles and snorts in a nocturnal symphony.
Once the feeding ritual is finished, the hyenas pounce on the remains provided to them in a chorus of chuckles, clacks, and growls. Their dentition specially adapted for crushing bones, combined with large jaw muscles, gives the spotted hyena the most powerful bite of all terrestrial carnivores. Moreover, its specially adapted stomach allows it to digest both skin and bones.
The incredible relationship Abbas has with the hyenas allows him to do almost anything he wants with them. On nights when no visitors attend the animal show, he doesn't hesitate to feed them directly inside his house.
At the Harari National Cultural Center in Harar, a painting from 1990 depicts Yusuf Salleh, Abbas's father, feeding the hyenas. Much more than a tourist attraction, this ceremonial is intertwined with the city's history itself. After nearly half a century of daily feeding, Yusuf, Abbas's father, passed the torch to his son, who was barely fifteen at the time. Since then, Abbas has looked after the hyenas with the same dedication as his father before him.
A spotted hyena heading towards its den. It is to the east of the city, in a new neighborhood emerging, that the hyenas have currently taken up residence. Offering ideal hiding places, they come to rest there during the day in the wooded areas nearby or in the pipes they use as dens. At dusk, they emerge from their retreat in search of food, only returning to the neighborhood at dawn.
A young spotted hyena on the outskirts of the city of Harar. The spotted hyena is easily identifiable by its sandy/gray coat with black or dark brown spots covering most of the body. The spots of the spotted hyena are darker in younger animals and may be almost entirely absent in very old animals.
A very young spotted hyena poking its head out of its den. It is to the east of the city, in a new neighborhood emerging, that the hyenas of Harar currently reside and where they use the pipes as dens. Nocturnal in habits, spotted hyenas generally spend most of the day in these dens, leaving only in the late afternoon until the early hours of the morning.
Three spotted hyenas play as if they were fighting. Social play is part of the many complex behaviors that organize the social relationships among different individuals within the same hyena clan. The spotted hyena is indeed considered the most sociable species in the realm of carnivores, with a social organization more resembling that of primates.
A spotted hyena on the outskirts of the city of Harar at sunrise. The spotted hyena is easily identifiable by its sandy/gray coat with black or dark brown spots covering most of the body.
A spotted hyena in the vicinity of the city of Harar early in the morning. Although generally shy in the presence of humans, the hyenas of Harar are so accustomed to human presence that they don't even seem bothered by the flash of the camera.
A spotted hyena during its nocturnal outing in the streets of the old town of Harar. Although increasingly rare, it is still possible, with a bit of luck, to spot hyenas in the streets of the old town of Harar, competing with dogs and cats for food scraps.
A group of spotted hyenas on one of the roads leading to Harar. Like shadows of the night, the hyenas of Harar seem almost familiar, as if they know every corner of the city. They move with grace, their movements fluid and precise, and with each encounter, a unique aura, mixed with a hint of almost mystical excitement, emanates from them.
A spotted hyena in the vicinity of the city of Harar early in the morning. Although generally shy in the presence of humans, the hyenas of Harar are so accustomed to human presence that they don't even seem bothered by the flash of the camera.
A spotted hyena, on the outskirts of the site where Abbas feeds the hyenas, at daybreak.
A pile of old bones near the site where Abbas feeds the hyenas. Bones and marrow constitute a significant part of the spotted hyenas' diet. It is the only carnivore capable of crushing the toughest bones of its prey to reach the marrow.
A spotted hyena holding a bone in its mouth, on the outskirts of the site where Abbas feeds the hyenas, at daybreak.
A spotted hyena scavenging for food. The presence of vultures indicates the potential presence of a carcass.
A stone on which are painted the two most iconic symbols of Harar: its fortified walls pierced with 5 gates dating back to the 16th century and its hyenas. Since the city was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2006, the tradition of the daily meal for hyenas continues to attract more attention from passing tourists in the city.
A butcher boning meat at the Gidir Magala meat market in Harar, Ethiopia. This is where Abbas goes every morning to buy fresh meat for the hyenas.
Abbas stands in front of a butcher shop at the Gidir Magala meat market in Harar, Ethiopia. Every morning, Abbas goes to the market dominated by butcher stalls to source fresh meat. Here, he collects up to 200 kg of camel, sheep, and goat meat and bones, which will be distributed to his proteges later in the evening.
Abbas in a butcher shop at the Gidir Magala meat market in Harar, Ethiopia. This is where Abbas goes every morning to buy fresh meat for the hyenas.
A butcher boning meat at the Gidir Magala meat market in Harar, Ethiopia. This is where Abbas goes every morning to buy fresh meat for the hyenas.
Abbas stands in front of a butcher shop, his bag filled with fresh meat. Every morning, Abbas goes to the market dominated by butcher stalls to source fresh meat. Here, he collects up to 200 kg of camel, sheep, and goat meat and bones, which will be distributed to his proteges later in the evening.
Abbas is cutting pieces of meat for the nightly meal of the hyenas. It's up to 200 kg of camel, sheep, and goat meat and bones that are distributed every evening to the hyenas of Harar.
Abbas is cutting pieces of meat for the nightly meal of the hyenas. It's up to 200 kg of camel, sheep, and goat meat and bones that are distributed every evening to the hyenas of Harar.
While Abbas prepares the meat for the hyenas' nightly meal, a cat tries to get a share of the feast. It's up to 200 kg of camel, sheep, and goat meat and bones that are distributed every evening to the hyenas of Harar.
Abbas is cutting pieces of meat for the nightly meal of the hyenas. It's up to 200 kg of camel, sheep, and goat meat and bones that are distributed every evening to the hyenas of Harar.
The incredible relationship Abbas has with the hyenas allows him to do almost anything he wants with them. On nights when no visitors attend the animal show, he doesn't hesitate to feed them directly inside his house.
Abbas in his Qat field. While the ritual of feeding the hyenas provides Abbas with comfortable income, as a savvy businessman, he has diversified his activities and also cultivates Qat, a plant with stimulating and euphoric properties, widely consumed throughout the Horn of Africa, and the main source of wealth in the region. The profits generated by this cultivation not only provide him with a significant supplementary income but also help mitigate potential fluctuations inherent in the tourism industry.
Abbas with his two children. When he will be no longer able to feed the hyenas, Abbas plans to pass the torch to his children, just as his father did with him.
The incredible relationship Abbas has with the hyenas allows him to do almost anything he wants with them. On nights when no visitors attend the animal show, he doesn't hesitate to feed them directly inside his house.
In Harar, a hyena trapped at the bottom of a hole after falling into it.
With the help of a rope, Abbas and his friends are pulling a hyena out of a hole it fell into. Over time, Abbas, nicknamed Hyena Man, has become an indispensable figure for everything related to hyenas in the region. His dedication to these creatures goes far beyond just daily feeding, and he doesn't hesitate to intervene to save hyenas in distress.
With the help of a rope, Abbas and his friends are pulling a hyena out of a hole it fell into. Over time, Abbas, nicknamed Hyena Man, has become an indispensable figure for everything related to hyenas in the region. His dedication to these creatures goes far beyond just daily feeding, and he doesn't hesitate to intervene to save hyenas in distress.
Abbas walks his 'domesticated' hyena near the site where he feeds wild hyenas daily. Abbas found a few-month-old baby hyena abandoned and in poor condition after being attacked by its peers. He took it in, fed it, and has been caring for it ever since as one would a pet. Although Abbas is very attached to this hyena, it may not be very happy about becoming a 'domestic companion.'' Deprived of its freedom, it can no longer be released into the wild because no clan will accept it, and it will thus spend the rest of its life chained up.
Abbas walks his 'domesticated' hyena near the site where he feeds wild hyenas daily. Abbas found a few-month-old baby hyena abandoned and in poor condition after being attacked by its peers. He took it in, fed it, and has been caring for it ever since as one would a pet. Although Abbas is very attached to this hyena, it may not be very happy about becoming a 'domestic companion.'' Deprived of its freedom, it can no longer be released into the wild because no clan will accept it, and it will thus spend the rest of its life chained up.
Abbas walks his 'domesticated' hyena near the site where he feeds wild hyenas daily. Like an animal trainer, Abbas aims to train his hyena to perform a few tricks and entertain passing tourists in the city.
Abbas walks his 'domesticated' hyena near the site where he feeds wild hyenas daily. Like an animal trainer, Abbas aims to train his hyena to perform a few tricks and entertain passing tourists in the city.
Abbas keeps his hyena in captivity as best he can. This large carnivore is still a wild animal that can be aggressive despite efforts to keep her under control.
To contain the aggressiveness of the hyena Abbas keeps in captivity, he must feed her a large quantity of meat daily. Hyenas need a minimum of 4 kg of meat per day and can eat up to 14 kg of meat at once.
Abbas walks his 'domesticated' hyena near the site where he feeds wild hyenas daily. Abbas found a few-month-old baby hyena abandoned and in poor condition after being attacked by its peers. He took it in, fed it, and has been caring for it ever since as one would a pet. Although Abbas is very attached to this hyena, it may not be very happy about becoming a 'domestic companion.'' Deprived of its freedom, it can no longer be released into the wild because no clan will accept it, and it will thus spend the rest of its life chained up.
Abbas shows off his 'domesticated' hyena near the site where he feeds wild hyenas daily. Like an animal trainer, Abbas aims to train his hyena to perform a few tricks and entertain passing tourists in the city. Meanwhile, for a few hundred birrs (Ethiopian local currency), he readily invites curious onlookers to approach and capture photos of the wild animal trained to obey humans.
Abbas shows off his 'domesticated' hyena near the site where he feeds wild hyenas daily. Like an animal trainer, Abbas aims to train his hyena to perform a few tricks and entertain passing tourists in the city. Meanwhile, for a few hundred birrs (Ethiopian local currency), he readily invites curious onlookers to approach and capture photos of the wild animal trained to obey humans.
A severely injured hyena lying at Abbas's place. Abbas took in this hyena mistreated by officers after it entered a police station. Severely wounded, it lost teeth and an eye. Abbas now provides it with attentive care while awaiting possible rehabilitation or its passing.
A severely injured hyena lying at Abbas's place. Abbas took in this hyena mistreated by officers after it entered a police station. Severely wounded, it lost teeth and an eye. Abbas now provides it with attentive care while awaiting possible rehabilitation or its passing.
Close-up of a spotted hyena. Although generally shy in the presence of humans, hyenas in Harar are so accustomed to human presence that they don't hesitate to venture a few centimeters from the camera lens.
A spotted hyena in the vicinity of the city of Harar early in the morning. Although generally shy in the presence of humans, the hyenas of Harar are so accustomed to human presence that they don't even seem bothered by the flash of the camera.
Silhouette of a spotted hyena, characterized by a massive elongated neck and a large head topped with rounded ears.
A spotted hyena during its nocturnal outing in the streets of the old town of Harar. Although increasingly rare, it is still possible, with a bit of luck, to spot hyenas in the streets of the old town of Harar, competing with dogs and cats for food scraps.

Harar: The Pact of the Hyenas

Where: Ethiopia

When: 2023

As the sun begins to decline behind the minarets of the fortified old town of Harar, in eastern Ethiopia, the calls of the muezzins for the fourth prayer of the day can be heard in the distance. And as the sky slowly darkens, dogs bark, alerting to the presence of danger. Soon, a silhouette characterized by a long neck topped with rounded ears emerges from the darkness. At the same time, on the small hill that borders his house, a man sits on a rock, calling out in a strange dialect: "... Koti, Challa, Botay, Chaltou, Falmata...". This man is Abbas Saleh, better known as Hyena Man, and like every evening, he calls the spotted hyenas that populate the surrounding area of the city. Abbas is, indeed, the guardian of a centuries-old tradition linking the inhabitants of Harar and the hyenas in a strange and fascinating pact.

In the emerging twilight, a hyena approaches silently, circling around Abbas, signaling that dinner can be served. Abbas then takes out a first piece of meat from his basket and, with the calmness of a pet dog, the hyena takes it, and then retreats into the darkness to enjoy its meal. After the first blessing, other eyes begin to shine in the shadow like stars in the sky, and, at the call of their name, one by one, the hyenas join the banquet until they form an impressive gathering of about forty beasts, swarming around their feeding master, exchanging chuckles and grunts in a nocturnal symphony.

Like shadows of the night, their eyes gleaming with a golden glow in the darkness, Harar's hyenas seem almost familiar, as if they know every corner of the city. They move with grace, their movements fluid and precise, and with each encounter, a unique aura, mixed with a hint of almost mystical excitement, emanates from them.
In Harar, life is punctuated by these encounters with the hyenas. These majestic predators, guardians of the city's soul, remind us that here, since time immemorial, humans and wildlife have forged a pact of good neighborliness based on peaceful coexistence and mutual respect.

Full story, both in French and English, available on request.